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Vague Rumors of Nova Scotia — A Fortnight upon Salt Water — Interesting Sketch of the Atlantic — Halifax! — Determine to stay in the Province — Province Building and Pictures — Coast Scenery — Liberty in Language, and Aspirations of the People — Evangeline and Relics of Acadia — Market-Place — The Encampment at Point Pleasant — Kissing Bridge — The “Himalaya” — A Sabbath in a Garrison Town — Grand Celebration of the Peace, and Natal Day of Halifax — And a Hint of a Visit to Chezzetcook. 13
Fog clears Up — The One Idea not comprehended by the American Mind — A June Morning in the Province — The Beginning of the Evangeliad — Intuitive Perception of Genius — The Forest Primeval — Acadian Peasants — A Negro Settlement — Deer’s Castle — The Road to Chezzetcook — Acadian Scenery — A Glance at the Early History of Acadia — First Encroachments of the English — The Harbor and Village of Chezzetcook — Etc., etc. 34
A Romp at Three Fathom Harbor — The Moral Condition of the Acadians — The Wild Flowers of Nova Scotia — Mrs. Deer’s Wit —viii No Fish — Picton — The Balaklava Schooner — And a Voyage to Louisburgh. 58
The Voyage of the “Balaklava” — Something of a Fog — A Novel Sensation — Picton bursts out — “Nothing to do” — Breakfast under Way — A Phantom Boat — Mackerel — Gone, Hook and Line — The Colonists — Sectionalism and Prejudices — Cod-fishing and an Unexpected Banquet — Past the Old French Town — A Pretty Respectable Breeze — We get past the Rocks — Louisburgh. 77
Louisburgh — The Great French Fortress — Incidents of the Old French War — Relics of the Siege — Description of the Town — The two Expeditions — A Yankee ruse de guerre — The Rev. Samuel Moody’s Grace — Wolfe’s Landing — The Fisherman’s Hutch — The Lost Coaster — The Fisheries — Picton tries his hand at a fish-pugh. 102
A Most Acceptable Invitation — An Evening in the Hutch — Old Songs — Picton in High Feather — Wolfe and Montcalm — Reminiscences of the Siege — Anecdotes of Wolfe — A Touch of Rhetoric and its Consequences. 121
The other side of the Harbor — A Foraging Party — Disappointment — Twilight at Louisburgh — Long Days and Early Mornings — A Visit and View of an Interior — A Shark Story — Picton inquires about a Measure — Hospitality and Two Brave Boys — Proposals for a Trip overland to Sydney. 135
A Blue-Nosed Pair of the most Cerulean Hue — Prospects of a Hard Bargain — Case of Necessity — Romantic Lake with an Unromantic Name — The Discussion concerning Oatmeal — Danger of the Gasterophili — McGibbet makes a Proposition — Farewell to the “Balaklava” — A Midnight Journey — Sydney — Boat Excursion to the Micmacs — Picton takes off his Mackintosh. 154
The Micmac Camp — Indian Church-warden and Broker — Interior of a Wigwam — A Madonna — A Digression — Malcolm discharged — An Indian Bargain — The Inn Parlor, and a Comfortable Night’s Rest. 176
Over the Bay — A Gigantic Dumb Waiter — Erebus — Reflections — White and Black Squares of the Chess-Board — Leave-taking — An Interruption — The Aibstract Preencipels of Feenance. 185
The Bras d’Or Road — Farewell to Picton — Home sweet Home — The Rob Roys of Cape Breton — Note and Query — Chapel Island — St. Peter’s — Enterprise — The Strait of Canseau — West River — The last Out-post of the Scottish Chiefs. 196
The Ride from West River — A Fellow Passenger — Parallels of History — One Hundred Romances — Baron de Castine — His Character — Made Chief of the Abenaquis — Duke of York’s Charter — Encroachments of the Puritans — Church’s Indian Wars — False Reports — Reflections. 212
Truro — On the Road to Halifax — Drive to the Left — A Member of the Foreign Legion — Irish Wit at Government Expense — The first Battle of the Legion — Ten Pounds Reward — St. John Gaspard’s Revenge — The Shubenacadie Lakes — Dartmouth Perry, and the Hotel Waverley. 224
Halifax again — Hotel Waverley — “Gone the Old Familiar Faces” — The Story of Marie de la Tour. 237
Bedford Basin — Legend of the two French Admirals — An Invitation to the Queen — Visit to the Prince’s Lodge — A Touch of Old England — The Ruins. 251
The Last Night — Farewell Hotel Waverley — Friends Old and New — What followed the Marriage of La Tour le Borgne — Invasion of Col. Church. 258
A few more Threads of History — Acadia again lost — The Oath of Allegiance — Settlement of Halifax — The brave Three Hundred — Massacre at Norridgewoack — Le Père Ralle. 269
On the road to Windsor — The great Nova Scotia Railway — A Fellow Passenger — Cape Sable Shipwrecks — Seals — Ponies — Windsor — Sam Slick — A lively Example. 279
Windsor-upon-Avon — Ride to the Gasperau — The Basin of Minas-Blomidon —xi This is the Acadian Land — Basil, the Blacksmith — A Yankee Settlement — Useless Reflections. 293
The Valley of Acadia — A Morning Ride to the Dykes — An unexpected Wild-duck Chase — High Tides — The Gasperau — Sunset — The Lamp of History — Conclusion. 302
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